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Make Your Own Printed Circuit Boards
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Looking for those hard to find PC Boards? We have them cheaper than you can find elsewhere. If you see it cheaper, PLEASE give us a chance to beat that price for you. We have the widest variety of boards in the industry. If you don't see it, just ask. We have boards from .005" thick to double sided boards with 4 oz. of copper on each side.

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ONLY available at INJECTORALL

 

How to Make a 1-Sided PC Board

(Positive Method)

 INTRODUCTION

These instructions are to be used to make fine resolution printed circuit boards by means of a photographic process utilizing a positive working photo resist.

BE SURE TO READ THE ENTIRE INSTRUCTIONS THOROUGHLY BEFORE PROCEEDING STEP BY STEP.

 

Materials Needed 

1. INJECTORALL TEST POSITIVE   for practice in making your first board

2. 4" x 6" GLASS 2 pcs.  to construct an exposure frame

3. FOUR METAL SPRING CLIPS   to hold glass and positive firmly against the board

4. THREE 1-SIDED SENSITIZED BOARDS   (2 boards 3x4.5" 1 board 4x6") to make printed circuit boards

5. PHOTO-FLOOD LAMP ( PC557 )   to expose board

6. DEVELOPER ( D3-6 ) to wash away exposed resist

7. TWO PLASTIC TRAYS   to hold photo resist developer and etchant

8. ETCHANT ( PC199-6 )   to etch away unwanted copper

9. TWO FOAM SWABS to wipe down the boards

10. SCOURING PAD   to remove photo resist after board is finished

11. .040" DRILL BIT ( PC300-60 )    to drill holes for components

12. PC 50A REUSABLE EXPOSURE GUIDE    to determine proper time and exposure rate

13. PROTECTIVE GLOVES to protect your hands while handling boards and chemicals

14. INSTRUCTION SHEET to provide instructions on the recommended method to make a printed circuit board

 

CAUTION: Do not open the black pouch containing the sensitized boards until ready to expose to the light source. The positive developer should be premixed and ready to use at 68-72 Fahrenheit.

AVOID CONTACT OF ALL CHEMICALS WITH THE SKIN.    PROTECTIVE CLOTHING, EYEWEAR, AND GLOVES  ARE A MUST. EXPOSURE AND DEVELOPING REQUIRE SAFE-LIGHT CONDITIONS, (RED OR YELLOW LIGHT).

  PROCESSING STEPS

I. SET UP POSITIVE
II. EXPOSE BOARD
III. DEVELOP
IV. ETCH
V. REMOVE RESIST
VI. FINAL ASSEMBLY
VII. PROTECTING FINISHED SURFACES

PRACTICE BOARD: To become familiar with the steps necessary to make a printed circuit board, we suggest that you make your first board for practice.

We recommend that you use a yellow or red 25W bulb for safe-light conditions. We suggest that you wear nylon gloves so as not to get fingerprints on glass or board.  NITRILE or rubber gloves as well as Safety goggles should also be used when handling the chemicals in this Kit.

I. SET UP POSITIVE

  1. Construct a contact frame by taking 2 pieces of plain plate glass, no more than 1/8" thick, and prepare to sandwich the pc board in between the glass with 4 spring clips.  It is important not to use Plexiglas or any other glass that contains UV blockers.
  2. Clean the positive artwork and the glass plates on the contact frame so that they are free of dust and fingerprints.
  3. Set up #2 Photo-flood bulb in a fixture. Arrange the bulb so that it is 10" above the contact frame.
  4. Exposure and developing require semi-dark conditions. No fluorescent or incandescent lights should be within 15 feet and blinds should be pulled to eliminate sunlight. If light is needed, a 25 watt yellow bulb should be used at least 10 feet away from the work area. A yellow fluorescent bulb is also acceptable, as well as a yellow fluorescent sleeve.

II. EXPOSE THE BOARD

START SEMI-DARK CONDITIONS

  1. Under semi-dark conditions and holding the board on the edges, slit open the black pouch containing the sensitized board while being careful not to touch the copper sides.
  2. Sandwich the positive between the copper side of the board and the glass plate. Be careful that the positive faces up, appearing the same as the original layout. Secure the four edges of the contact frame tightly with the four metal spring clips. Place the clips so that they do not cover any of the required printed circuit wiring.
  3. Expose the board to the lamp for 6 minutes at a distance of 10 inches.

III. DEVELOP THE BOARD

BE SURE TO WEAR PROTECTIVE GLOVES  WHEN HANDLING   DEVELOPER.

CONTINUE SEMI-DARK CONDITIONS

DILUTE DEVELOPER WITH SEVEN PARTS DISTILLED OR FILTERED WATER

IMPORTANT: DEVELOPER MUST BE 25 C ( between 68-72 F ) TO WORK PROPERLY

  1. While the board is being exposed, pour the developer into tray. There should be 3-4 inches of developer above the board.   USE WITH ADEQUATE VENTILATION. AVOID PROLONGED BREATHING OF VAPOR AND PROLONGED    OR   REPEATED CONTACT WITH SKIN.
  2. Place the exposed board into the developer, copper side up.
  3. Rock gently for up to 2 minutes in the developer.
  4. After the first 5-10 seconds, an image should start to appear.  If an image does not appear until 25 seconds or more, it is time to change the developer.
  5. Remove the board from the developer being careful not to touch the copper face. Use a plastic rod as an aid. Handle the board by the edges.
  6. Wash the board in cool standing water for two minutes. This will stop the chemical action of the developer. The developer may now be poured back into the bottle. DO NOT USE FORCEFUL RUNNING WATER. THE BOARD IS NOW READY FOR ETCHING
  7. Inspect the pattern before etching. If there are any breaks in the pattern, they can be touched up using our RESIST INK PEN.

IV. ETCHING THE BOARD

CAUTION: Never use a metal tray, only glass or plastic.   Severe burns can happen if aluminum is used.

AVOID CONTACT WITH SKIN. USE PROTECTIVE GLOVES, GOGGLES AND CLOTHING.

USE WITH ADEQUATE VENTILATION.

  1. Pour the etchant into a plastic or glass tray.
  2. Immerse the board for up to 30 minutes, inspecting frequently to avoid overetching.   All of the unwanted copper should be removed.
  3. Remove board and rinse in cool standing water for two minutes to terminate the etching process.

BE SURE TO WEAR   PROTECTIVE GLOVES   WHEN REMOVING THE BOARD FROM THE ETCHANT.

V. REMOVING THE RESIST  

After etching the board, the copper traces will still be covered with the Positive Photo Resist.  The Photo Resist may be removed by using a fine Scotch Brite pad ( part number PC-SB ). The Resist may be left on to prevent the copper from oxidizing until ready to mount the components.

VI. FINAL ASSEMBLY

  1. Drill holes using drill bits ( part numbers PC-300 series ).
  2. Solder components using light wattage iron. Components should be flush to the board and leads should be soldered flush and tight.
  3. Carbide drill bits ( part numbers PC-300C series ) are available.

VII. PROTECTING FINISHED SURFACES  

After all components are soldered to the board, spray copper with a protective coating. This will prevent oxidation of the copper and will protect the mounted components.  

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Contact Information

Telephone

516-349-1273

FAX

631-563-3389

Postal address

40 Diamond Drive, Plainview NY 11803

 

 

Electronic mail

General Information: injectorall@mindspring.com

Copyright 2003 Injectorall Electronics Corp.

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